This summer, I traveled through Croatia—a country full of history and beautiful scenery. Here’s a glimpse into the places I explored and the impressions they left behind.

Zagreb: WWII Tunnels and vibrant local night life

Croatia’s capital felt refreshingly untouristy, most likely because it is inland. When we arrived late in the evening, we were welcomed by the hum of chatter from locals dining and hanging out in the outdoor restaurants.   

The historical buildings were different from Paris, where architecture seem grand and meticulously preserved. Zagreb’s architecture bore the marks of time: graffiti, wear, and reconstruction from a devasting earthquake. It was still charming, especially around Radiceva Street, with cobblestone streets, taverns and cafes.

Hidden within the city center is a network of WWII-era tunnels carved into the hillside—broad, fortified, and naturally cool. These tunnels were built during wartime to shield residents from bombings, with multiple entrances allowing people to reach safety quickly from different parts of town. Today, only a small section is open to the public, serving as both a tribute to the past and an art space. The atmosphere is eerie, almost otherworldly electronic music plays throughout the chambers taking full advantage of the acoustics. The sound bounces off the walls like singing in the shower, but with a futuristic and dystopian vibe.

Plitvice Lakes Waterfalls: Turquoise Jewel

Plitvice Lakes Waterfalls is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its cascading lakes, yet connected by hundreds of waterfalls. Elevated wooden paths wind through the forest and across the water, giving visitors a close-up view of the waterfalls. The beautiful shades of turquoise, blue, and emerald come from a unique mix of calcium-rich limestone, algae, bacteria, and the way sunlight reflects off the water. Over time, limestone deposits build up and shift, reshaping the flow of the water and creating a landscape that’s ever-changing.

We were expecting a quick 90-minute tour of Plitvice Lakes, which is typically packed with slow-moving crowds trapped along the wooden walkways. On the day we went, it was relatively quiet because it was an extremely hot day.  Our enthusiastic guide, Iggy, saw it as a rare chance to explore the park without the crowd. He surprised us with an extended five-hour walking tour of the full park instead. By the end, we were completely out of water and exhausted. The views were amazing, and the experience was unforgettable in so many ways.

Zadar: Music from the Sea and Light from the Sun

The coolest thing in Zadar was the Sea Organ which played a calming, ever changing soundtrack powered by the waves. There was also a solar-powered light display that glowed late into the night. In the pedestrian-only old town, the buzz centered around St. Anastasia Square where the Cathedral of Saint Anastasia and the Church of Saint Donatus made a scenic back drop.

Even though Croatia is right by the sea, most of the beaches are rocky, so there wasn’t much chance for sandcastle building. Instead, we went to a seaside saltwater pool, watching people dive into the ocean off incredibly high boards. It was a nice spot enjoy beautiful sunset.

St. Anastasia Square

Seaside Saltwater Pool & Diving Board:

Split: History You Can Touch

Split felt like walking through 1,700 years of history all jumbled up with overlapping time periods from the Late Roman, Medieval, Renaissance, and modern day eras. Diocletian’s Palace was special because it wasn’t just a site to be visited; it was part of the city, woven into everyday life.  There’s no entrance gate or ticket, just streets, homes, and businesses incorporated into and around the historical buildings. Exploring the city felt like walking through a museum without glass barriers. You could literally sit on stones that have been there for centuries, eat at a restaurant that was a room within the Palace, and walk across weathered paths once used by long gone civilizations.

One of the prominent examples of this juxtaposition was seeing the precisely cut and fitted stones from the Roman era, built by engineers and mathematicians, right next to the uneven, leaning structures from the medieval and Renaissance periods, when access to quality materials and skilled labor was more limited. The passing time and the changing of the regimes lead to an ironic twist of fate. Diocletian, the Roman emperor who led the persecution of Christians, had his mausoleum turned into a Christian church. It reminds me of the quote, “History is written not only by the victors, but by those who endure.” — Anonymous

Peristil from Diocletian’s Palace

Within Diocletian’s Palace

Diocletian’s Mausoleum / Cathedral with added Tower (looks like the St. Anastasia Sq.)

Dubrovnik: Fortified town with breathtaking stairways

Dubrovnik felt like stepping into a movie set, literally, since it was one of the filming locations for Game of Thrones. The city walls were stunning, and within them lies a town made up of a maze of cobbled alleys and staircases that run up or down hills, depending on which way you’re facing. The well-preserved buildings made it feel like something out of a storybook. Homes and shops are packed along the slopes, built right into the hillside. Getting around means climbing multiple flights of uneven stone steps. Day and night, you’ll see (or hear) people huffing and puffing as they drag their suitcases to where they are staying. We had to climb four flights of grueling stairs every time we left our apartment. The city is beautiful, but also very touristy. The only locals we encountered seemed to be those working in tourism. Still, staying in a centuries-old building tucked inside a storybook town was very memorable.

View from the city walls:

Unending Staircases:

Reflections from the Road

• Hearing Slavic languages for the first time was disorienting. Unlike French or Spanish, where I can catch familiar words, Slavic felt completely foreign. Thankfully, most people spoke English, which made things easier.
• Despite the summer heat, Croatia’s coastal evenings were cool and breezy. However, the weather can be unpredictable. After several consecutive days of hot, sunny skies, a sudden thunderstorm rolled into Split along with sheets of rain, hail the size of nickels, and winds strong enough to send shutters and branches flying. The streets flooded due to clogged drains from the scattered leaves, but within a few hours, everything was back to normal. The storm passed as abruptly as it arrived.
• Traveling through Croatia (and Sicily last year) made me truly appreciate the culinary diversity of the Bay Area. In Croatia, the food can be a bit repetitive.  We even made a rhythm: (“pizza, pasta, calamari…and burgers”) to describe what we had for many meals. Back home, I have access to authentic dishes from all parts of the world, and it makes me both grateful and curious. Curious about the places I haven’t been, and nostalgic for the flavors I’ve already tasted.